This property my client bought from auction. I helped him, from finding, to flipping.
purchase your home before the foreclosure date!
Don’t loose everything. Do you know if you delay, then you almost get nothing.
I can help you sell your home direct to right investors so you go easy and get something than nothing.
Collectors will collect for sure, either home, or money so why loose and delay.
I will go over your situation and share options.
No harm in making a call.
We don’t need to meet if you don’t want to.
Let me know
Any way I can help you, I will.. please give me a call.
|Total Home Inspection Checklist
Use a checklist like this to make sure that you are looking at all parts of the house.
Check off those items that are in good condition and make notes about those that are not.
(Note that this list describes an ideal house, but in our experience no house is perfect –
not even brand new ones!!)
This checklist should not be relied upon as a home inspection report, nor should it be
considered a substitute for a home inspection. This list is representative, but NOT
exhaustive. If you require a home inspection, contact me and I will refer you good inspectors .
____ Proper grading drainage away from house
____ No evidence of standing water
____ No leaks from septic tank or leech field
____ Yard, landscaping, trees and walkways in good condition
____ No branches or bushes touching house or overhanging the roof
____ Exterior structures (fences, sheds, decks, retaining walls, detached garages) in
good condition, no evidence of termite damage or rotted wood
____ Railings on stairs and decks are adequate and secure
____ Driveways, sidewalks, patios, entrance landings in good condition, and pitched
away from structure
____ Downspout drainage directed away from structure
____ Ridge and fascia board lines appear straight and level
____ Sides of house appear straight, not bowed or sagging
____ Window and doorframes appear square (especially bowed windows)
____ Visible foundation in good condition – appears straight, plumb, with no significant
____ Adequate clearance between ground and wood siding materials (6″ minimum); no
____ Siding: no cracking, curling, loose, rot or decay
____ Masonry veneers: no cracks in joints, no broken, spalling or flaking components
____ Stucco: no large cracks (discuss all stucco cracks with a professional inspector)
____ Vinyl or aluminum siding: no dents, damage, no bowing or loose siding
____ No vines on surface of structure
____ Exterior paint or stain: no flaking or blisters
____ No stains on exterior surfaces
Windows, Doors and Wood Trim
____ Wood frames and trim pieces are secure, no cracks, rot or decay
____ Joints around frames are caulked
____ No broken glass (window or storm panes) or damaged screens, no broken doublepaned, insulated window seals.
____ Muntin and mullion glazing compound in good condition
____ Storm windows or thermal glass used
____ Drip caps installed over windows
____ Composition shingles: no curling, no cupping, no loss of granulation particulate,
no broken, damaged or missing shingles, no more than two layers of roofing
____ Wood shingles or shakes: no mold, rot or decay, no cracked/broken/missing
shingles, no curling
____ Flat roofs: no obvious patches, no cracks or splits, minimal blisters/”alligatoring”
and wrinkles, no silt deposits (indicates improper drainage), sealed tar at flashings
____ Flashing around roof penetrations
____ No evidence of excess roofing cement/tar/caulk
____ Soffits and fascia: no decay, no stains
____ Exterior venting for eave areas: vents are clean and not painted over
____ Gutters: no decay or rust, joints sealed, attached securely to structure, no bending
or sagging, no sections of gutter or downspout missing, gutters clean, no mud deposits
____ Chimneys: straight, properly flashed, no evidence of damaged bricks or cracked
joints, mortar/cement cap in good condition
____ No stains on underside of roofing, especially around roof penetrations
____ No evidence of decay or damage to structure
____ Sufficient insulation and properly installed insulation (moisture barrier installed
closest to the heated area of the house)
____ Adequate ventilation, clear path into attic for air entering through soffit vents,
adequately sized gable end louvers, all mechanical ventilation operational
____ No plumbing, exhaust or appliance vents terminating in attic
____ No open electrical splices
____ Floors, walls and ceilings appear straight and plumb and level
____ No stains on floors, walls or ceilings
____ Flooring materials in good condition
____ No significant cracks in walls or ceilings
____ Windows and exterior doors operate easily and latch properly, no broken glass, no
sashes painted shut, no decay; windows and doors have weather-stripping, “weep holes”
____ Interior doors operate easily and latch properly, no damage or decay, no broken
____ Paint, wall covering, and paneling in good condition
____ Wood trim installed well and in good condition
____ Lights and switches operate properly
____ Adequate number of three pronged electrical outlets in each room
____ Electrical outlets test properly (spot check)
____ Heating/cooling source in each habitable room
____ Evidence of adequate insulation in walls
____ Fireplace: no cracking or damaged masonry, no evidence of back-drafting (staining
on fireplace façade), damper operates properly, flue has been cleaned, flue is lined
____ Working exhaust fan that is vented to the exterior of the building
____ Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (“GFCI”) protection for electrical outlets within 6
feet of the sink(s)
____ Dishwasher: drains properly, no leaks, baskets, door spring operates properly
____ No leaks in pipes under sinks
____ Floor in cabinet under sink solid, no stains or decay
____ Water flow in sink adequate
____ No excessive rust or deterioration on garbage disposal or waste pipes
____ Built-in appliances operate properly
____ Cabinets in good condition: doors and drawers operate properly
____ Working exhaust fan that doesn’t terminate in the attic space
____ Adequate flow and pressure at all fixtures
____ Sink, tub and shower drain properly
____ Plumbing and cabinet floor under sink in good condition
____ If sink is metal, it shows no signs of rust, overflow drain doesn’t leak
____ Toilet operates properly
____ Toilet stable, no rocking, no stains around base
____ Caulking in good condition inside and outside of the tub and shower area
____ Tub or shower tiles secure, wall surface solid
____ No stains or evidence of past leaking around base of bath or shower
____ Smoke and carbon monoxide detectors where required by local ordinances
____ Stairway treads and risers solid
____ Stair handrails where needed and in good condition
____ Automatic garage door opener operates properly, stops properly for obstacles
Basement or Mechanical Room
____ No evidence of moisture
____ Exposed foundation; no stains no major cracks, no flaking, no efflorescence
____ Visible structural wood: no sagging, no damage, no decay, no stains, no damage
from insects, sills attached to foundation with anchor bolts
____ Insula tion at rim/band joists
____ Adequately vented to exterior
____ Insulation on exposed water supply, waste and vent pipes
____ Insulation between crawl space and heated areas, installed with vapor barrier
towards heated area
____ No evidence of insect damage
____ No evidence of moisture damage
____ Visible pipes: no damage, no evidence of leaks, no signs of stains on materials
near pipes; drain pipes slope slightly down towards outlet to septic/sewage system
____ Water heater: no signs of rust, vented properly, sized to produce adequate
quantities of hot water for the number of bedrooms in the house.
____ Water pump: does not short cycle
____ Galvanized pipes do not restrict water flow
____ Well water test is acceptable
____ Hot water temperature between 118 – 125 degrees Fahrenheit
____ Visible wiring: in good condition, no “knob-and-tube” wiring, no exposed splices,
cables secured and protected
____ Service panel: adequate capacity, all cables attached to panel with cable
connectors; fuses or breakers are not overheating
____ No aluminum cable for branch circuits
____ Appears to operate well throughout (good air flow on forced hot air systems)
____ Flues: no open seams, slopes up to chimney connection
____ No rust around cooling unit
____ No combustion gas odor
____ Air filter(s) clean
____ Ductwork in good condition
____ No asbestos on heating pipes, water pipes or air ducts
____ Separate flues for gas/oil/propane and wood/coal
Answer: a 6D certificate is a notarized document which is required for most sales or refinancing of condominiums. This document needs to be completed by a unit owner’s closing date. A 6D Certificate provides a bank, mortgage company or attorney the information that ALL BALANCES ARE PAID and that the association is not due any fees prior to the refinancing or sale of a condominium. 6d Certificate. The term “6d” certificate refers to that statutory section of the Condominium Act, section 6 (d). Lenders and their closing attorneys will require a “clean” 6d which states there are no unpaid fees. The recording of a clean 6d certificate will prevent the association from ever filing a lien against that unit.
If you are selling or refinancing your condominium you must take the following steps in order to obtain a 6D certificate:
1. Sign an Information Release Form at the Mgmt. Office.
This form allows Mgmt. to answer questions for attorney, brokers, mortgage companies and appraisers that may be a part of your sale or refinance.
2. Notify the office of the closing date along with the name and contact information for the New Buyer.
For a refinance, closing date alone will suffice.
3. Once a closing date has been determined, then discuss amount and checks with condo management office.
4. Please be reminded that a 6D certificate takes 2 weeks or 10 business days to process.
Sellers will need to bring the following to the closing:
- State issued driver’s license
- Keys to home and alarm codes/information
- Smoke detector and carbon monoxide detector certifications from local fire department. Your Realtor should assist you with this.
- Signed Deed from you to the buyers. Your attorney should have drafted the Deed.
- Title V Inspection Report for septic system (check if your property has one- If not then don’t worry)
- Evidence of repairs (if applicable)
- Final water/sewer bill and reading (paid) and final oil bill and statement from oil company as to amount remaining in tank. You will need to make the request at least 2 weeks prior to closing.
- Copy of last paid real estate tax bill.
- 6D certificate for condominium unit showing that condo fees are paid up.
- It’s also a nice gesture to give the new buyers the name of your landscaper, septic company, private trash hauler, handyman, etc. I’m sure your workmen will appreciate it also.
The day has finally come and it’s time to close on the purchase of your property. You will need to bring the following to the closing:
- Funds For Closing. If you need to bring cash to the closing, you must bring to closing a bank or certified check PAYABLE TO YOURSELF for the balance of the figure shown on line 303 on your HUD-1 Settlement Statement: Cash From Buyers. This is for fraud prevention, and you’ll endorse the check over to the closing attorney at the closing. The closing attorney should provide you with this number at least 24-48 hours prior to closing. Accordingly, if you need to move funds around from investments accounts, etc., do so well in advance of the closing, and be prepared to make a bank run to obtain that bank/certified check!
- Homeowner’s Insurance Binder. At closing, you need a homeowner’s insurance binder showing the first year premium paid. If you are purchasing a condominium unit, you will need to provide with the Master Insurance Binder, and depending on the type of loan you use, you may need an HO-6 policy covering the interior of your unit. The closing attorney will typically get an insurance binder ordered ahead of time, but this should be on your “to-do” list.
- Your state issued driver’s license with picture or other picture identification. Some lenders now require a second form of i.d. Your closing attorney will advise you of this.
- If a sale of your present home is required by your new lender, you must bring the HUD-1 Settlement Statement and a copy of the Deed from that transaction.
- Good Faith Estimate. You should bring the Good Faith Estimate of closings costs that your lender originally provided to you during the loan application process. That way, you can ensure that the final closing costs match up to those originally quoted to you.
- Draft HUD-1 Settlement Statement. You should have received a preliminary HUD-1 Settlement Statement from the closing attorney’s office. Due to lender delays, it is not uncommon to receive this the night before or the morning of closing, although this is obviously not ideal. Compare the prelim HUD to the HUD you are signing at the closing table.
- Your Smile. Yes, bring your smile. It’s a happy day, and despite all the tumult and stress you are finally purchasing your home!
Are you getting ready to put your home on the market or just preparing for a change in seasons, anytime is a good time to spruce up the nest.
Please see attached fall home maintenance checklist to cover all the big and small tasks that help you keep your homes safe and comfortable when cooler weather arrives. Download here